Saturday, 7 April 2012
Home again
Im back from holidays and raring to get back to work
Tuesday, 3 April 2012
The old Rectory Coddington
The old rectory Coddington Cheshire is a grade ll listed property .The present owners have embarked upon a full restoration of the property including all of the windows.
Kensingtons was engaged to carry out the restoration work, including major rot repairs and draught proofing to twenty six windows.
New Website
Welcome to our new website.. Here we hope to give you all the latest news and musings from kensington sash windows here in our blog
Monday, 16 May 2011
Accoya wood
We are just checking out this new and exiting product
Tuesday, 8 March 2011
Sash windows are a precious part of our built heritage that makes the places we work and live special. Most people find them attractive.
But keeping them is not just a matter of taste. It also makes economic and ecological sense. Original timber windows were made of very high quality wood seldom found nowadays. It is a waste to replace them unnecessarily. Plastic windows consume a lot of energy in their production and most are only expected to last for around 20 years. When broken, most go to land-fills.
Besides, sash windows are a unique feature of your property. It gives it character and special appeal. 82% of estate agents we surveyed this year felt that original features such as sash windows tend to add financial value to properties and 78% believed they helped a property to sell more quickly.
But keeping them is not just a matter of taste. It also makes economic and ecological sense. Original timber windows were made of very high quality wood seldom found nowadays. It is a waste to replace them unnecessarily. Plastic windows consume a lot of energy in their production and most are only expected to last for around 20 years. When broken, most go to land-fills.
Besides, sash windows are a unique feature of your property. It gives it character and special appeal. 82% of estate agents we surveyed this year felt that original features such as sash windows tend to add financial value to properties and 78% believed they helped a property to sell more quickly.
Saturday, 26 February 2011
Sash window painting
Procedure for internal painting
1.Slide the outer sash down a little and raise the inner sash slightly, leaving a gap top and bottom.
2.Paint the glazing bars and the surfaces of the inner sash including the top surface of the meeting rail and the underside of the bottom rail.
3.Then paint what you can see of the outer sash, including the face (but not the underside) of the meeting rail.
4.Now slide the outer sash up, but not quite closed, and lower the inner sash by gripping it from the outside so that you don't touch the wet paint.
5.You can now complete the painting of the outer sash, omitting the top surface of the top rail. Ideally you should leave the sashes in this position until dry.
6.According to how your colour scheme relates to the outside paint colour, you can either paint the pulley stile at the same time as the sashes, or later. If painting at the same time, then the stile, parting bead and staff bead can be painted in sections as the sashes are moved up and down. Pull the sash cords out when you are working behind them (painting the cords makes them more likely to break); paint the pulley housing but not the pulley itself, otherwise it will jam and the sashes will not run easily.
7.Finish off by painting any inside linings, frames, and shutters. Tackle one component at a time if possible, and complete it before moving on to the next. Any framed elements such a shutters or lining should be covered in the following order; mouldings and panels (at the same time), muntins, top rail, middle rail, bottom rail, and stiles. Remember to 'lay off' (the final brush strokes) in the same direction as the grain of the wood.
Procedure for external painting
1.Reverse the sashes as described above and paint all visible surfaces except the top surface of the top rail of the inside sash. The pulley stiles can be painted at this time also.
2.Return the sashes to an almost closed position and complete the painting of the inner sash and the pulley stiles, together with the cill.
When finished, all exposed wood should be covered; any unprotected wood can be affected by moisture, providing entry points for rot and allowing unwanted expansion with consequent sticking of the sashes. At the same time, the coating of paint should not be so thick as to cause its own problems, jamming the sashes in their runners, or preventing them from moving at all.
1.Slide the outer sash down a little and raise the inner sash slightly, leaving a gap top and bottom.
2.Paint the glazing bars and the surfaces of the inner sash including the top surface of the meeting rail and the underside of the bottom rail.
3.Then paint what you can see of the outer sash, including the face (but not the underside) of the meeting rail.
4.Now slide the outer sash up, but not quite closed, and lower the inner sash by gripping it from the outside so that you don't touch the wet paint.
5.You can now complete the painting of the outer sash, omitting the top surface of the top rail. Ideally you should leave the sashes in this position until dry.
6.According to how your colour scheme relates to the outside paint colour, you can either paint the pulley stile at the same time as the sashes, or later. If painting at the same time, then the stile, parting bead and staff bead can be painted in sections as the sashes are moved up and down. Pull the sash cords out when you are working behind them (painting the cords makes them more likely to break); paint the pulley housing but not the pulley itself, otherwise it will jam and the sashes will not run easily.
7.Finish off by painting any inside linings, frames, and shutters. Tackle one component at a time if possible, and complete it before moving on to the next. Any framed elements such a shutters or lining should be covered in the following order; mouldings and panels (at the same time), muntins, top rail, middle rail, bottom rail, and stiles. Remember to 'lay off' (the final brush strokes) in the same direction as the grain of the wood.
Procedure for external painting
1.Reverse the sashes as described above and paint all visible surfaces except the top surface of the top rail of the inside sash. The pulley stiles can be painted at this time also.
2.Return the sashes to an almost closed position and complete the painting of the inner sash and the pulley stiles, together with the cill.
When finished, all exposed wood should be covered; any unprotected wood can be affected by moisture, providing entry points for rot and allowing unwanted expansion with consequent sticking of the sashes. At the same time, the coating of paint should not be so thick as to cause its own problems, jamming the sashes in their runners, or preventing them from moving at all.
Friday, 25 February 2011
Repair or replace
Repair or replace?
There is often an assumption that old windows will need to be replaced if they are
in need of repair and because of this many original windows are lost - and money
spent – unnecessarily. An historic building’s character depends upon correct
proportions, material and detailing as well as the retention of historic fabric. Careful
repair ensures that these features can be retained.
A window often can appear to be in worse condition than it actually is, so make
sure that the assessment is properly carried out, as detailed below. A specialist
joiner, or blacksmith/metal window restorer for metal windows, will generally be able
to advise on whether repair is possible, but bear in mind that some companies will
prefer to make a new window than undertake time-consuming repairs.
Original windows should only be replaced as a last resort
Historic joinery is usually made from naturally seasoned hard and softwoods, and
if the timber is properly maintained, it is likely to outlast a modern replacement
window. Historically timber was slow grown and naturally-seasoned, unlike the
majority of modern timbers, and producers did not rely upon preservatives and
stove-drying.
It is very uncommon for metal windows to be beyond repair. Although they may
appear to have corroded, surface rust looks much worse than it is. Metal windows
are often capable of restoration either in-situ or can be taken away to a workshop
for more extensive repairs.
Modern windows tend to be poorly detailed and heavy in appearance with the
‘storm-proofed’ opening ‘lights’ set outside the main frame, protruding cills and
no or crudely detailed mouldings. Double-glazing windows are easy to spot due
to their external mirror-like reflection and spacer bars. Modern materials such as
uPVC, stained hardwoods, ‘stick-on’ lead or glazing bars only add further to the
loss of character of a period building. The difference between traditionally detailed
timber casement and sash windows, and modern uPVC alternatives, can be seen in
the images on this page.
Unlike traditional timber windows a modern uPVC window is not easily repaired and
often has to be totally replaced when it fails. The repair of a timber window will use
far less resources than the manufacture of a new window, and is, therefore, also far
more sustainable.
The starting point for any repair or alteration work to an historic building is to seek
professional advice. It is also very important to record and photograph original
windows before they are altered or removed. Where windows with leaded lights are
being removed for repair, it may be prudent to make a rubbing of the leaded lights
in order to record their arrangement.
The installation of a new window in a listed building will require listed building
consent.
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